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Model helicopter setups, tips and suggestions. Please email any ideas and suggestions you have, we will list them here.
BLITZ AVRO 90
Build Manual Download
1. When securing the control balls to the swash plate assembly, you might notice the centre bearing become notchy if you tighten them too much. I simply sanded the ball threads back lightly and this no longer was an issue.
2. Depending on the actual model of your servos, you may need to use the JR centre screw supports depending on the thread size in the servo shaft for a Futaba servo. This is likewise for JR servos using a Futaba output pinion. Hitec Servo servo horns are available as an option.
3. Be careful when securing the Lower main mast bearing block as it can be very easy to strip the metal thread. If you do this, simply find a slightly longer cap screw or use that as a preference in the first instance.
4. The 3D rotor head setup is quite agressive and touchy. We have found that setting the controls as per the sports / FAI setting using the trailing edge blade grip method but placing the bearings, harder dampers and inserts in as per the 3D setup works well.
5. The ball links are very tight when first installed. Use a ball link reamer, such as a JR one and re size the ball link on both sides. You will find that they can move more freely on the ball and improve the feel of the model whilst flying.
6. For 3D or F3C we recommend using 690mm rotor blades.
BLITZ AVRO 90 EQUIPMENT USED
1. Servos are Futaba BLS 351 Brushless Servos on main controls, 9254 on the throttle and BLS 251 on the tail.
2. Gyro used is Futaba 611 with matching BLS 251 brushless tail servo.
3. Engine is a O.S 91 SZ Pumped with Hatori 939 Muffler
4. Power is supplied via a Scott Gray Reactor X running at 6 Volts with a 4800ma 7.4 Lithium Ion 4 cell battery available to purchase through our site
5. Blades are Curtis 690 185g main rotor blades, 105mm tail blades and 105mm super stubz paddles
6. Receiver is a Spektrum AR7000 with a JR gold switching harness
7. Additional items are OMI fuel magnet in the fuel tank, Blitz hard rubber damper set and 3D Tail fins, a few 100mm Futaba extension leads, velcro wraping and double sided servo tape, glow extension lead and a 3 way fuel filter.
8. We also use Extreme Helis 30% LV Heli fuel available from us, and Enya 3 glowplugs.
HIROBO SDX 50
Build Manual Download
1. For 3D flight, remove the larger heavier weight from the flybar paddles gently with pliers keeping the small front weight in.
2. The ball links are very tight, they may need reaming from a ball link reaming tool.
3. The self tapping screws that hold the main gear on to the auto hub are very tight and need a good grip and a proper sized screwdriver to get them in. Be careful not to strip the screw head.
4. I replaced the fuel tank line with Hayes Black fuel line as it lasts longer than the clear stuff.
5. The D3 header tank option is a must for 3D flight, do not use the clunk in this setup.
6. I used a Quick UK fan which is a far better balance than the kit original.
7. You will need to dial guage the clutch starter shaft, it is really only essential if you have foaming fuel when first flying.
8. Be sure to grease your tail thrust bearings and ensure the right thickness washers are in the right place. |
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